The Kiko Kostadinov Men’s AW2021-22 selection continues the designer’s inbuilt exploration of hauntology – the Derridean portmanteau of ‘haunting’ and ‘ontology’ that prescribes the ghostly return associated with elements from the past. Initially referring to Marxist theory plus later applied to music, social memory and retrofuturism, whenever applied to fashion a hauntological reading allows for the postmodern ‘non-origins’ of Kostadinov’s styles to exist as a build of myriad, non-linear recommendations. Amongst those signposts, a pair of fictional works inject the collection’s perpetual experimentations in patternmaking with the leitmotifs of risky and bucolic narrative. The very first, Christopher Priest’s A Desire Wessex (1977), delves in to a future trapped within virtuelle wirklichkeit. The second, Patience Grey’s Honies From A Weed (1986), graphs the author’s culinary escapades of foraging across the Mediterranean sea. Though neither appear literal nor overt, both tales permeate with a striking polarity to express extreme notions associated with formality, comfort, utility plus artifice.
Interspersed using the hothouse shades of nonresident ikebana, a coastal winter season palette navigates between gloomy blues, petroleum, russet, umber and dun-coloured browns directly into flashes of turquoise, increased, lavender, vermillion and canary yellow. Colliding with motocross panelling and classical dressmaking techniques, raw edges plus round shoulders soften the particular season’s futuristic uniforms split over zipped vareuse plus cycling tops. A tectonic camouflage of hybrid florals debuts print, dressing very humble cottons and pyjama silk sheets in chaotic finery since shawl collars, tabard clothes and gardening aprons are usually detached from gender in order to stir distant memories associated with both labour and sleep.
Tactical and ceremonial garments are treated with similar rigour, as archetypes such as the flight suit, peacoat plus cricket sweater are deconstructed to create new yet acquainted forms. Trousers evolve through Bulgarian folk costume, lacing through petal-shaped eyelets on the waist and calf. Examined at the elbow, blazers change with ribbed arm hotter sleeves, mimicked by two-tone knitted jackets or U-neck jersey gilets worn more than club collar shirts. The particular classic textures of France tweed and flannel bank checks find new eccentricity because curvilinear appliqués, subverting dirty connotations of prestige.
The Kiko Kostadinov Men’s AW2021-22 selection is situated in a Priest-inspired purgatory, where suspended vertical resting pods await bodies inside a clinical construct of chromatic planed surfaces. The simulation of a runway presentation licks on the standardized documentation associated with fashion show imagery, eliminating elements of cinematic storytelling plus art direction to discuss our perceived notions from the genre. Breaking this traditionalist conceit, a dual method of still imagery sees the concise group of 30 silhouettes released to traditional press outlets in a core portrayal of the season, whilst another 60 silhouettes will broaden the styling possibilities of the particular collection as randomized triptychs in a dedicated window upon kikokostadinov. possuindo .
Image production: Thomas Sobre Cruz Media
Hair: Kiyoko Odo in Bryant Artists
Make up: Go Fujiwara
Casting: Henry Jones ARQA
Songs: Paride Calvia
Website: WAF GMBH
Press: A. We.
Text: Serta Thawley